Organic Yerba Maté: Life Through the Journey of a Leaf...

It is already 6 a.m. Marcello finishes his chimarrão, his beloved yerba maté, and gazes out at the forest that provides both his daily infusion and his livelihood. At the very least, his maté supplies him with vitamins and stimulating caffeine to help combat the fatigue of the working day ahead. He could be working at the processing facility, spending an eight-hour shift receiving sacks of maté and emptying them so that the fresh, elliptical green leaves harvested from native trees can be dried.

The atmosphere surrounding the “sapeco” process is bustling, noisy, and distinctly masculine. Yet Marcello much prefers venturing deep into the forest to care for the trees and harvest leaves in the wild with the help of horses—a demanding but peaceful task.

Here in the forest, patience is essential: harvesting only begins once a tree reaches six years of age, and some of these trees are more than forty years old.

The leaves are cultivated according to organic farming principles, which means that only manual maintenance, clearing, and pruning are permitted, and no fewer than 35 men are dedicated to this work.

Marcello belongs to one of two producer groups that have joined the FAIR FOR LIFE program. Each group manages nearly fifty hectares of forest and supports the livelihoods of twelve families.

The partnership with the processing facility could soon allow three additional landowners to benefit from the Fair Trade program established with terre d’Oc and other maté buyers.

The system guarantees a fair income based on production costs and a reasonable margin, enabling producers to earn a decent living while enjoying greater security, well-being, and peace of mind.

The workers’ association decides how the Fair Trade premium paid by buyers and distributed by the factory should be used for the benefit of project participants. Although recently established, the association has already financed a wheelchair for a child with its first contributions.

“We will meet with the families to discuss initiatives that can improve life for the community and make collective decisions together with the factory,” Marcello explains.

Marcello has already spent three hours pruning and cutting under the sun, fortunately sheltered somewhat by the very trees he cares for, themselves protected beneath the forest canopy. At the same time, he monitors their health and ensures that pests and diseases do not damage the woodland. There are no women working here; the labor is simply too physically demanding, especially during harvest season when sacks of leaves must be filled and loaded onto horse-drawn carts. On rainy days, the wet clay soil makes the work particularly difficult for both people and horses.

The sound of César’s voice pulls Marcello from his thoughts—it is break time. Like any good “cebador,” César has already prepared the maté, keeping the thermos of hot water at hand. He calls everyone over as he fills the bombilla with this mild, delicate maté, whose flavor comes from growing in the protective shade of towering forest trees. It is a moment of simple grace: the precious beverage refreshes and revitalizes the forest worker once again.